A Possible Florence Itinerary

There are so many things to do and see in florence, it can be overwhelming. Last summer some friends were coming into town and they had some children to contend with. I developed this proposal for them, and thought maybe it could help some others. I hope it helps you! The itinerary below is for 5 days. Definitely not enough time to do the city justice, but it should wet your appetite to come back.

These days can be used in whatever order you see fit. I included in each day some of the museums and sites, and an outdoor activity or something physical. Each day is focused in one particular geographic part of the city. I think I have included all of the “must see” things in the daily itinerary and then there is a list of miscellaneous if you find you have extra time.Take time to sit in some of the piazzas. There is usually music or some activities going on. Eating or drinking in the restaurants in the piazzas is expensive, and not your best choices, but sometimes tempting.

Day 1

Visit the inside of the Duomo and the Baptistery and then climb to the top of the Duomo-You might want to do the climb first thing in the morning as it will be pretty hot, and then the inside of the church and baptistery before lunch. There are 463 stairs to the top of the duomo.

Have lunch at Lo Scudo which is near the Duomo at via del’Oriuolo, 53. They have great pizzas and pasta.
After lunch visit Santa Maria Novella. There is also a beautiful cloister here. On one of the roads to the left as you are facing the church from the piazza, on via della scala is the 400 year old Farmacia of Santa Maria Novella which sells perfumes, liquors and soaps made by the monks. It is beautiful, historic, and cool in the summer.

Day 2

Walk across the Ponte Vecchio and admire the shops. Notice the Vasari Corridor that starts at Palazzo Vecchio and extends to the Pitti Palace across the Ponte Vecchio.Visit the museums of interest at Palazzo Pitti-(Pitti Palace)There are the Appartimenti Reali, Galleriia d’Arte Moderna, Galleria del Costume, Galleria Palatina, Museo degli Argenti, and the Boboli Gardens. (Save the gardens for after lunch).Walk over to Piazza Santo Spirito for lunch-Borgo Antico is on the right hand side of the piazza when you are facing the church. Great pizza and pasta.Return to Palazzo Pitti in the afternoon for the gardens. There are many shops and artisans in the Oltrarno area (the other side of the river, where Pitti Palace is located) explore some of these small streets and shops.

Day 3

Visit the Galleria del Accademia to see the original David. There is another exhibit inside of musical instruments which is also interesting and only takes a few minutes. Be sure to buy your tickets before you get to Florence for this event. They will be dated and timed. When you get to the museum on your date and time, go to the line for presold tickets. The other one will be around the building. They usually run a little behind the time noted on the ticket letting people in.Walk over to San Lorenzo area and visit the Mercato Centrale (food market) as well as the market with all the merchants in the stalls on the street. If you want to buy something, negotiate the price that they tell you!Have lunch in the Mercato Centrale or at Sergio Gozzi located at Piazza di San Lorenzo, 8. This is on the street next to the church behind some of the stalls (look for the shoes stall) It is difficult to find, but ask one of the vendors.After lunch, visit the San Lorenzo church and the Medici Chapel.

Day 4

Visit the Bargello.Have lunch at I Ghibellini (Piazza san pier maggiore, 8) They are closed on WednesdayAfter lunch head over to the Cascine park for bike riding. You can rent bikes in the park.

Day 5

Spend the morning at The Uffizi. (Buy your tickets before you come to Florence. You will get a date and time)Spend time before or after in Piazza Signoria. There is a lot to see here, and there is always some type of music or entertainment going on. You can go into the ground floor of the Palazzo Vecchio and look around there. This Piazza, is the coolest and breeziest in the summer months! There is good gelato in the bar on the far corner called Perseus.Have lunch at Bistro del Mare Via Lungarno Corsini 4 Very nice, but a 10 euro lunch menu.After lunch walk or take the bus to Piazzale Michelangelo. Bus tickets cost 1.20 euro at the Tabbachi shops (stamp the ticket when you get on the bus! They are good for 90 minutes) Bus number 12 or 13 will take you to the top. It’s not a bad walk. Cross the Ponte Vecchio and turn left on the road that runs by the river. At the tower, there is a road behind it that weaves up to the top. Great overlook!

Restaurant recommendations for dinners-must make a reservation because of the size of your party
Birreria Centrale-Piazza Cimitori
Il Santo Bevitore-via Santo Spirito
Il Gatto e La Volpe, via Ghibellina, 15
Acqua il 2

Miscellaneous

La Carraia gelato is the best in the city (Oltrarno at Ponte Carraia)
If you like the bike riding idea, you might be interested in taking the train to Lucca where you can rent bikes and ride around the top of the medieval city wall.
There is a bus (no.7) to a small village called Fiesole where there is an archeological site from 5 B.C. This might be old news after Rome.
Giubbe Rosso in Piazza Republicca is a place where you can order a drink at the bar and sit at the tables inside without paying a higher price. They also have good bathrooms.
There are good public bathrooms that are clean and nice (cost .60) around town. Some other “free” bathrooms are located in the museums of course, and in the department stores.

Artemisia Gentileschi at Palazzo Blue-Pisa, Italy

I first came to know about Artemisia Gentileschi when I read the historical fiction, The Passion of Artemisia: A Novel While this book is a novel and by definition, is not entirely true, she was a famous and historically interesting woman in the post Renaissance era. (1593-1656)She was the first woman to be admitted to the Academia di Arte del Disegno in Florence. During this time, women were not easily accepted in the profession of artists. Artemisia was raped, and the focus of most of her paintings were strong biblical women, such as Judith who beheaded Holofernes. Judith is a subject that Artemisia painted many times. While during her time, she was mostly regarding as “strange”, today she is regarded as one of the most expressive and progressive artists of her time.I have seen a few of her paintings in the Uffizi and Palazzo Pitti but this exhibit in Palazzo Blu contains paintings from other museums as well as private collections. The exhibit is free also, so it is not to be missed! This exhibit focuses of the period of time when Artemisia was in Naples. The exhibit runs through June 30th and the hours of operation are Tuesday to Friday 10-7 and Saturday and Sunday 10-8. There is also a wonderful costume exhibit by Anna Anni who designed costumes for opera, films and ballets usually under the direction of Franco Zephirelli. It is also free! Pisa is a short 50 minute train ride from Florence.

Ospedale degli Innocenti

This amazing building, the Hospital of the Innocent is located in Florence at Piazza Santissima Annunziata. The building was designed by Filippo Brunelleschi. You might remember this name as he was also the designer of the Dome on Florence’s famous Duomo!

Originally this building was an orphanage. Notice the blue and white ceramic glazed roundels by Andrea della Robbia suggesting the use of the building with the swaddled babies.Sadly, at the end of the loggia, there is a wheel where mothers could place the babies, ring the bell and leave the baby to the hospital.Sometimes mothers left tokens or small medallions with the baby in hopes of someday being able to locate the child that they had to abandon because of poverty.This system was in operation until 1875. Today the building is a museum, but as of this writing it is closed for restoration.Today, the largest section in the Florence telephone directory is the name Innocenti. Some of these are descendents of those babies left throughout the ages at the orphanage.

The Plant Sale at the Horticulture Center

Several of my friends have insisted that I should visit this sale, even though I have no gardening space or terrace in my apartment. I do love plants and long for a place to put them. I have a few herbs and an occasional flowering plant, but don’t have too much success with my window boxes that don’t get enough sunlight, and later on in the summer, too much sunlight…nevertheless, I try.This plant sale was unbelievable and worth going to simply to enjoy the color, fragrance, and see the different species of plants for sale. It lasts one week, this year from April 25-May 1 and they also have a Fall event the first weekend in October. Of course, true to form, I visited this event on the last day.I was concerned that everything would already be sold, but boy was I wrong. There were a lot of people there even though it was the last day, and the weather was unpredictable that day. The display was phenomenal and definitely worth going to even if you aren’t buying. Of course I couldn’t resist, and managed to make it home with a large basil plant, thyme, mint, lavender, and rosemary, which I use all the time.This year, I have really been taken with plants and flowers. I’m not sure if that is a result of the 5 months of rain, a longing for “green” in this city of stone, or both! Anyway, I am certainly enjoying this Spring of seemingly more flowers than normal!You can enter the garden from these locations: Via Vittorio Emanuele II, 4 e da via Bolognese 17. Enjoy!

The Iris Garden at Piazzale Michelangelo

The Iris Garden is opened this year from April 25-May 20. Having gone very late in the year last year, I was determined to get there early this year, so arrived on April 26!Unfortunately, since the nights have been cooler this year, none of the irises were in bloom. One of the women working there assured me that in a week or so, they would be in bloom, so a friend and I took the excursion back up on May 4. They were blooming and lovely!This garden is run by the International Iris Society and is only open during the one month that the irises are blooming. I was there on a Saturday and there were a lot of people there taking photos and enjoying the countryside. The garden is located among an olive grove on the side of the hill and paths wind down the hill, making a very scenic peaceful and lovely place to spend an afternoon.There are lots of places to sit down and enjoy the scenery, and the colors and types of irises are splendid.My friend and I decided we couldn’t really say which was our favorite after several times proclaiming, “Oh, this is my favorite!” The multi-colored ones were exceptional, but also the simplicity and perfection of the ones in one delicate color. As is often true, my camera doesn’t do justice to the real beauty, and the fragrance throughout the garden was nice as well. The trip to the Iris garden each Spring is something I will look forward to for many years to come.The garden is opened, as I said for one month, but the times are 10-12:30 and 3-7 each day. Entrance is free.